The Arc’teryx Alpha LT Jacket Review


my arcteryx beta lt jacket

I’m a big fan of Arc’teryx products. I recently reviewed my Arc’teryx Stingray pants, and my other favorite GoreTex piece is my Alpha LT jacket by Arc’teryx. I use it year round, it’s very comfortable, well made and robust. My favourite feature of this jacket is the little things that make it so ergonomic to wear. I use it for climbing, mountaineering, hiking and backcountry skiing.

Designed with Target Audience in Mind

Arc’teryx really thinks about the target audience and activity when designing their jackets. They separate their products into Alpha and Beta models and AR, SV and LT lines.  *The LT line has been replaced with a SL – which stands for Super Light – line, which is even lighter and more packable but has similar features.

arcteryx logo on my jacket

What is the difference between Alpha and Beta series jackets?

Arc’teryx organizes their jacket line by activity (climbing or skiing) and weight (light versus heavier). First, there is the Alpha and Beta line. What is the difference between the two?

The Alpha line features climbing and alpinism focused pieces: harness compatible length and waistline; chest pockets accessible while wearing a pack or harness; maximum articulation for overhead motions; helmet compatible hoods; drop hem; highest possible durability-to-weight ratio; emphasis on lightweight materials.

The Beta line is designed for all around mountain use garments, with features such as: moderate length; hand pockets; interior pockets; moderate articulation; room for layers; helmet compatible hoods; drop hem.

Alpha: made specifically for climbers

The Alpha LT is a light and durable GoreTex pro shell.  This jacket is made for climbing and has an exceptional climber’s fit.  It won’t ride up as you reach up high – which is very important for climbers who make this movement repeatedly, as opposed to skiing, where that movement it is more of an exception.

The Alpha LT logo on the inside pocket.

The Alpha LT logo on the inside pocket.

What is the difference between LT, SV and AR jackets?

The LT series are built with highly durable top performance materials but designed with a streamlined minimalist set of features to provide very light weight. This is an all around mountain jacket, and LT stands for light, and now it’s part of the SL line – super light.

The AR series provides high performance and weather protection and highlights a range of features to give all around versatility in multiple activities. The SV line is made for intense weather – think expedition to Antarctica. This is the most robust and heaviest performing hard shell, made for nasty weather and expedition weight.

Features

  • GoreTex Pro

This jacket is made from GoreTex Pro – a much more breathable version of GoreTex fabric. GoreTex Pro can be identified by a rip stop pattern on the inside of the fabric. It’s a very tough fabric that is about 30% more breathable than basic GoreTex fabric.

  • Zippers and Vents

Long pit zips vent heat very effectively.  These work very well when you get sweaty, and are great to have especially when it’s rainy, and you want to keep from getting too hot but also keep the rain out.  Two front chest pockets have waterproof zips.

  • Non bulky wrist closures

It has non bulky velcro wrist closures, which makes it easy to put longer winter gloves over top of the sleeve.

  • Inserts prevent jacket from riding up

Flexible ‘hemlock’ inserts on the bottom of the jacket keep your jacket comfortably in place while wearing your harness. The inserts keep the jacket from riding up.

A laminated inside pocket is made with stretch fabric. All seams are laminated and lay flat. The cut is very precise for sport.

  • Comfortable collar

On the top of the collar, the inside features a layer of fleece where the inside of the collar rests. This fleece chin guard is for comfort around your face – no abrasive or stiff gore-tex fabric on your face when fully zipped up.

  • alpha lt hood fits over a climbing helmet easily

    Great in stormy weather, and hood fits over a climbing helmet easily.

    Specially Designed “StormHood”

The storm hood is a very aggressive design designed to keep out the elements.  This hood does a very good job of keeping the wind and elements away from your face in a storm.

The ultimate helmet-compatible hood – fits over a climbing or ski helmet with ease. It features a singe strap in the back of the head to adjust for a perfect, snug fit.  This adjustment is glove-friendly – it’s easy to adjust on the fly even when you’re wearing gloves.

There is also another adjustment inside the hood which adjusts the fit of the hood around your face.  The hood also has a brim which is great at blocking out moisture or wind.

  • A climbing jacket

Did you know that their jackets are made either for climbing or skiing, depending on how the front pockets are oriented? This is designed specifically with skiers or climbers in mind.

My Alpha LT is designed for climbing: the front pockets are accessed from closer to the zipper – inward. In a ski jacket, the pockets will be accessed closer to the armpits – or outward.

The reason the pockets are oriented inward on the Alpha LT is to keep your balance while climbing.

Inward vs. Outward Pockets

On the Alpha LT the chest pockets are oriented inward as opposed to outward. So to get into your pockets, you would use your left hand to get into your right chest pocket and your right hand to get in to your left chest pocket.  This is all designed very specifically for climbing, particularly alpine climbing!

Arcteryx alpha LT jacket full view

The Arc’teryx jacket is easy to repair. Note the tear on the right chest pocket. This was fixed under warranty with a patch attached from the inside of the pocket.

How it works:

If you are climbing, you don’t need to upset your balance to get in your pockets.  You can hold yourself on the wall with your right hand and use your left hand dig in your right hand pocket, and so on.  This is much better than having to crane your arm out to reach into the same size pocket, where you are hanging your weight out to one side.

This also makes your pockets easily accessible while wearing a pack or harness.

Jackets made for skiing are designed differently.  I own an Beta AT jacket and it has outward pockets.  This allows the pockets to be bigger, which allows me to stuff larger items such as climbing skins into them.  You can also stick your hands inside these pockets easier when you need to warm them.

Inside alpha lt jacket detail

Inside jacket detail.

  • A perfect cut

I love the way my jacket is cut to fit so perfectly.  When you put this jacket on, you’ll be surprised in how good it feels to have it on – you don’t even feel like you’re wearing a jacket due to it’s ergonomic, comfortable fit. You can move freely in this jacket.  This jacket feels a great, natural movement, and even when the hood is done up, you get a great, unobstructed view and unrestricted freedom of movement.

Interested in Arc’teryx?

The Alpha jacket line is available at Backcountry.comevo.com and many other merchants.

Navigate by brand to see what Arc’teryx products are on sale, or use our gear finder to find a specific product.

Alicja

Alicja

Alicja is an economist, enjoys climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing, cycling and gets out into the backcountry as much as possible. See all of Alicja's Blog Posts
Alicja
Comments
  1. Winter Storm Watching in Tofino said on December 24, 2016 10:00 am:

    […] you from overheating. Over top of all your layers add a GoreTex jacket and pants. I like the Arc’teryx jackets. Make sure your jacket has a really good hood that you can synch around your […]

  2. Gear Review: Cabela's Rainy River PacLite Gore-Tex jacket said on May 23, 2017 9:00 pm:

    […] would be hesitant to use this jacket where weight is an issue, and would opt for my Arc’teryx Alpha LT or Patagonia M10 (made with H2No, Patagonia’s version of Gore-Tex).  But this is a great […]

  3. Gear review: The Marmot Precip rain jacket said on November 4, 2017 3:00 pm:

    […] Comparable jackets such as the Patagonia Torrentshell, Columbia Watertight II, The North Face Venture 2 are far less breathable. While this jacket has the best value, there are of course other jackets that have all the features and more, and are much more breathable, like the Arc’teryx Beta SL or Arc’teryx Alpha LT. […]